Special treat: Bang in the centre of the old town, the Baudon-de-Mauny (baudondemauny.com) has the discreet charm of the Montpellier haute bourgeoisie. Doubles from £138, two nights minimum.
Mid-range: It is impossible to be closer to the Comédie, Montpellier’s nerve centre, than at the New Hotel du Midi (0033 4 67 92 69 61). There’s wacky décor and very decent rooms. Doubles from £83.
Amble to the Comédie and take a table for a first refresher. Perhaps at the Café Riche. There’s no better place to take in the square’s lightly worn grandeur.
If the waiter becomes too annoying, leave for the Café de l’Esplanade on the Esplanade – where promenades and trees extend the square.
Move to the Place Jean Jaurès is an apéritif central, colonised by cafés with terraces. Bag a chair where you can, order a pastis – old-hat among the hip but a sight cheaper than a mojito.
Saveurs et Sens (0033 499 616204; www.saveursetsens.fr) is an unobtrusive little spot run with inventiveness and warmth. At £21 for three courses, I doubt you’ll feel hard-done-by.
Stroll around until you get to the tranquil Place Canourgue and have a glass at Le Comptoir de l’Arc.
Head along Rue Foch, a Haussmanian swath carved through medieval Montpellier to the Arc-de-Triomphe, which honours Louis XIV.
Wriggle back through the old town. You’ll note St Peter’s Cathedral and nearby, Europe’s oldest medical school.
La Pomme de Reinette (33 Rue de l’Aiguillerie) is a vast warren of toyshops as they used to be. If you’re over 45, you’ll grin like a fool and drown in nostalgia.
Visit the revitalised Musée Fabre for one of France’s finest collections of European art (museefabre.montpellier-agglo.com, £5 for the permanent collection).
The 13th-century vaults of the Maison de la Lozère, aka Cellier-Morel, have been a top spot for better-dressed folk for 20 years (0033 467 664636; celliermorel.com; dinner from £41).
